S4wiki - User contributions [en]

Talk:Tuning

2009-09-02T22:04:25Z

NorCalS4:

'''(**is this fuel tuning process for tuning stg 3 cars w/ upgraded MAFs?? If tuning a stg. 1-2+ car, what fueling maps, if any, would need to changed??? sry, this was the only way i could figure out how to ask you a question)'''

Technically, no, it isn't needed for 1-2+, but if you are running a bunch of boost on pump gas, a bit of extra fuel via LAMFA or KFLDBTS isn't a bad idea. - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 17:58, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

:Also, do you think you can add the exact process for flashing (read/write) the ECU. Do you have to take out fuses? Do you have to use a battery charger to make the voltage stable? Do you have to put it in boot mode? [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 21:18, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

::No, no fuses necessary. The most important thing is making sure the voltage is ok... bench flashing is always the safest - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 22:05, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

:also, one this part "FLKDHBN - maximum requested pressure ratio " , isnt FLKDHBN suppose to be KFLDHBN?? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 21:42, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

::uh yea. i guess is should fix that heh - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 22:05, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

Anyways can you post the steps to flashing either here or on the tuning page? Also, is there a way to flash in teh car, though the OBD port? If so, would you like to explain that to me? Also, piggie gave me an invite to the "other" forum. I have been looking around and cant find much on ME7.1 tuning. got any links I should follow? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 10:31, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

:I don't really know the technical details, if that's what you are asking.. I only know to point and drool the software UI. Its pretty straightforwards. For the non-boot mode ones, you really just need a stable 12V source. Radio off, A/C off, if you are doing it through the OBD port. For the boot-mode ones, you have to hold the boot pin to ground while you power up the ECU (easiest to do on a bench) for a second or so. As far as that forum goes, its more for discussion of details. Feel free to email me if you have any other questions. As you can see, discussing things here can be cumbersome - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 11:19, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

::okay. to me its ok discussin it here, if its okay with you. Ill be on the other forum more and will look around more. What method do you use for flashing? Do you road or dyno tune? I will be road tuning and i want to use the method that would be the most convenient one. - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 11:45, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

:::I use the Galletto (bootmode) on the bench, primarily. I can do it in the car in a pinch, through the OBDII but i carry the bench harness with me with a cig lighter adapter. Run the laptop off of battery, turn everything in the car off, and use the harness. I log WOT using mostly 3rd gear road pulls. I do part throttle fueling tuning on the road using varying gears and uphill/downhill grades. Would be nice to have dyno time but i can't justify the expense - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 13:26, 1 September 2009 (PDT)

::::Okay. I would like to do it without going into boot mode, if possible. I have galletto cable and a kwp2000+ inferface. What cable & program should I use for flashing though the OBD port without puttin the ECU in boot mode? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 14:05, 1 September 2009 (PDT)

:::::The software is on the [[Tuning]] page near the top. I just bought a cheap kwp2000+ cable on ebay. - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 14:54, 2 September 2009 (PDT)

I also got a cheap KWP2000+ off of ebay. So can I use my KWP2000+ cable and KWP2000 ME7 software to flash though the ECU without putting the ECU in boot mode??

Talk:Tuning

2009-09-01T21:05:47Z

NorCalS4:

'''(**is this fuel tuning process for tuning stg 3 cars w/ upgraded MAFs?? If tuning a stg. 1-2+ car, what fueling maps, if any, would need to changed??? sry, this was the only way i could figure out how to ask you a question)'''

Technically, no, it isn't needed for 1-2+, but if you are running a bunch of boost on pump gas, a bit of extra fuel via LAMFA or KFLDBTS isn't a bad idea. - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 17:58, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

:Also, do you think you can add the exact process for flashing (read/write) the ECU. Do you have to take out fuses? Do you have to use a battery charger to make the voltage stable? Do you have to put it in boot mode? [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 21:18, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

::No, no fuses necessary. The most important thing is making sure the voltage is ok... bench flashing is always the safest - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 22:05, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

:also, one this part "FLKDHBN - maximum requested pressure ratio " , isnt FLKDHBN suppose to be KFLDHBN?? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 21:42, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

::uh yea. i guess is should fix that heh - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 22:05, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

Anyways can you post the steps to flashing either here or on the tuning page? Also, is there a way to flash in teh car, though the OBD port? If so, would you like to explain that to me? Also, piggie gave me an invite to the "other" forum. I have been looking around and cant find much on ME7.1 tuning. got any links I should follow? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 10:31, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

:I don't really know the technical details, if that's what you are asking.. I only know to point and drool the software UI. Its pretty straightforwards. For the non-boot mode ones, you really just need a stable 12V source. Radio off, A/C off, if you are doing it through the OBD port. For the boot-mode ones, you have to hold the boot pin to ground while you power up the ECU (easiest to do on a bench) for a second or so. As far as that forum goes, its more for discussion of details. Feel free to email me if you have any other questions. As you can see, discussing things here can be cumbersome - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 11:19, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

okay. to me its ok discussin it here, if its okay with you. Ill be on the other forum more and will look around more. What method do you use for flashing? Do you road or dyno tune? I will be road tuning and i want to use the method that would be the most convenient one. - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 11:45, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

:I use the Galletto (bootmode) on the bench, primarily. I can do it in the car in a pinch, through the OBDII but i carry the bench harness with me with a cig lighter adapter. Run the laptop off of battery, turn everything in the car off, and use the harness. I log WOT using mostly 3rd gear road pulls. I do part throttle fueling tuning on the road using varying gears and uphill/downhill grades. Would be nice to have dyno time but i can't justify the expense - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 13:26, 1 September 2009 (PDT)

Okay. I would like to do it without going into boot mode, if possible. I have galletto cable and a kwp2000+ inferface. What cable & program should I use for flashing though the OBD port without puttin the ECU in boot mode? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 14:05, 1 September 2009 (PDT)

Talk:Tuning

2009-09-01T21:04:12Z

NorCalS4:

'''(**is this fuel tuning process for tuning stg 3 cars w/ upgraded MAFs?? If tuning a stg. 1-2+ car, what fueling maps, if any, would need to changed??? sry, this was the only way i could figure out how to ask you a question)'''

Technically, no, it isn't needed for 1-2+, but if you are running a bunch of boost on pump gas, a bit of extra fuel via LAMFA or KFLDBTS isn't a bad idea. - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 17:58, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

:Also, do you think you can add the exact process for flashing (read/write) the ECU. Do you have to take out fuses? Do you have to use a battery charger to make the voltage stable? Do you have to put it in boot mode? [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 21:18, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

::No, no fuses necessary. The most important thing is making sure the voltage is ok... bench flashing is always the safest - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 22:05, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

:also, one this part "FLKDHBN - maximum requested pressure ratio " , isnt FLKDHBN suppose to be KFLDHBN?? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 21:42, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

::uh yea. i guess is should fix that heh - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 22:05, 30 August 2009 (PDT)

Anyways can you post the steps to flashing either here or on the tuning page? Also, is there a way to flash in teh car, though the OBD port? If so, would you like to explain that to me? Also, piggie gave me an invite to the "other" forum. I have been looking around and cant find much on ME7.1 tuning. got any links I should follow? - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 10:31, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

:I don't really know the technical details, if that's what you are asking.. I only know to point and drool the software UI. Its pretty straightforwards. For the non-boot mode ones, you really just need a stable 12V source. Radio off, A/C off, if you are doing it through the OBD port. For the boot-mode ones, you have to hold the boot pin to ground while you power up the ECU (easiest to do on a bench) for a second or so. As far as that forum goes, its more for discussion of details. Feel free to email me if you have any other questions. As you can see, discussing things here can be cumbersome - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 11:19, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

okay. to me its ok discussin it here, if its okay with you. Ill be on the other forum more and will look around more. What method do you use for flashing? Do you road or dyno tune? I will be road tuning and i want to use the method that would be the most convenient one. - [[User:NorCalS4|NorCalS4]] 11:45, 31 August 2009 (PDT)

:I use the Galletto (bootmode) on the bench, primarily. I can do it in the car in a pinch, through the OBDII but i carry the bench harness with me with a cig lighter adapter. Run the laptop off of battery, turn everything in the car off, and use the harness. I log WOT using mostly 3rd gear road pulls. I do part throttle fueling tuning on the road using varying gears and uphill/downhill grades. Would be nice to have dyno time but i can't justify the expense - [[User:Nyet|Nyet]] 13:26, 1 September 2009 (PDT)

Okay. I would like to do it without going into boot mode, if possible. I have galletto cable and a kwp2000+ inferface. What program should I use for flashing though the OBD port without puttin the ECU in boot mode?

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T18:46:02Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T18:45:48Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T17:38:56Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T17:31:02Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T17:30:02Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T16:52:01Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T04:42:32Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T04:18:52Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T04:18:41Z

NorCalS4:

Talk:Tuning

2009-08-31T04:18:23Z

NorCalS4:

Tuning

2009-08-30T22:45:40Z

NorCalS4: /* Fueling */

==Getting Started==

Things you need

# KWP2000+ OBD cable
# KWP2000+ [http://nyet.org/cars/files/KWP2000-ME7.zip flashing software]
# [http://www.markmansur.com/downloadApp.htm TunerPro]
# XDF file for the revision of ECU you are using. If you wish to use a different version software than your car came with, read [[Generations | this]] carefully.
#* [http://nyet.org/cars/files/8D0907551M-20081221.xdf XDF] for M-box.
# [http://www.ecufix.com/shop/ ECUFix] (optional, some KWP2000 flashing software will do checksumming for you)
# [[VCDS]] (aka VAG-COM) and/or [[ECUx]]
# A wide-band O2 sensor if you are not using stock fueling. A tailpipe sniffer is fine, as long as you have test-pipes and no pre-cats in your downpipes.

==Fueling==

'''(**is this fuel tuning process for tuning stg 3 cars w/ upgraded MAFs?? If tuning a stg. 1-2+ car, what fueling maps, if any, would need to changed??? sry, this was the only way i could figure out how to ask you a question)'''

Always start with this first. If you get fueling wrong, you will likely break something. Get this right, and do not try pushing the envelope in any tables until you are confident your fueling is where you want it. Always use a wideband sensor. '''''Do not''''' skimp on this. The stock narrow bands do not provide you with accurate enough readings.

*MLHFM - compensate for [[MAF]] housing diameter. Some argue that using a different MAF housing (to extend the functional metered flow range) requires you to fix this so that measured load is "correct". The upside is that all of Motronic's tables that are based on load are probably still good. The downside is that you may hit the hard limit of load, and you'll go lean at high loads because the ECU can't tell how much air the motor is ingesting. That's obviously very bad. If that's the case, you'll definitely want to scale back the MAF readings some. Even if you don't ride the hard limit, you'll also run off the end of the load axis in the timing tables. Some say this isn't so much of an issue.

*KRKTE - primary fueling. Start with this to get your WOT [[AFR]] to roughly match your requested [[AFR]]. If you are using stock injectors and fuel pump, you should not have to touch this.

There are two ways to adjust requested AFR:

*KFLDBTS - requested lambda for component protection when calculated EGT is above TABGBTS (may require a lower TABGBTS if your MAF is not 100% compensated for in MLHFM)
*LAMFA - requested lambda when calculated [[EGT]] is below TABGBTS

Once you get your WOT AFR right, you may notice that your [[LTFT]]s are way out of whack. If they get too far out, you'll throw a code and possibly go into limp mode.

*KFKHFM - Correction map for [[MAF]]. Log [[STFT]]s at various part throttle positions, RPMs, inclines, and gears to determine where the [[MAF]] readings need tweaking. If you are using the stock [[MAF]] and intake system, you should not have to touch this.

Now that you have your fueling set up, you'll probably notice that your MPG readings in your cluster are totally wrong. Fill up a with a tank of gas, and reset your trip odometer and average MPG. When you are done with the tank, fill up your tank, see how much gas you used and how far you went, and check it against the new average MPG. Get a calculator out, and correct it here:

*KVB - fuel consumption (MPG in cluster)

==Boost==

[[ME7.1]] doesn't really have a "boost" table. It does everything based on "specified load". Requested boost is roughly 10*(spec load)+300mbar.

First, make sure the 100% pedal position requests enough load:
* KFMIRL - specified [[load]]

Specified load/boost will never exceed these limits:
* LDRXN - maximum specified load
* FLKDHBN - maximum requested pressure ratio

===IAT effect on requested boost===
ME7.1 will adjust the specified load limit depending on [[IAT]]s. As IAT's go up, ME7.1 brings the max boost up a bit so that the driver can't tell that the car is slow in hot weather. However, at some point, if IAT's go high enough, you may want to pull max specified load a bit to prevent knock:
* KFTARX - IAT correction for maximum specified load

If you are really riding the bleeding edge of boost, you may ONLY want to reduce requested boost as IATs go up.
Also, if you are running a lot of boost, and always want maximum performance, there is no point in increasing boost when it is hot, let alone reducing boost when it is cold.

See also LDIATA below.

===Cam changeover effect on requested boost===
Motronic likes to change requested boost depending on cam position. While it may seem like a good idea in theory, in practice, abrupt changes in requested boost near the [[MAP]] limit can make the boost [[PID]] unhappy. When logging, you may see an odd notch in requested boost between 3000 and 4000 RPM. These maps are what is causing that notch
* KFPBRK - Correction factor for combustion chamber pressure
* KFPBRKNWS - Correction factor for combustion chamber pressure when NWS active
* KFPRG - Internal exhaust partial pressure dependent on cam adjustment when sumode=0
* KFURL - Conversion constant for ps->rl dependent on cam adjustment when sumode=0

===Boost [[PID]]===

If your actual boost is not meeting requested boost, you may have to increase the PID I limit between 2250 and 5000 RPM for 850 and 1000mBar:
* KFLDIMX - LDR I-Regulator limit

To go along with KFTARX above, there is another IAT correction that ME7.1 uses to allow the PID to add waste-gate duty cycle at elevated IATs. You may want to zero it all out:
* LDIATA - LDR I-Regulator limit as a function of IAT

If you aren't using K03s, you may have to tweak the PID response. Note: this is NOT used to adjust requested boost. It is used to compensate for different waste-gate responses.
* KFLDRL - Map for linearization of boost pressure = f(TV). This is the '''post-PID''' waste-gate duty correction table.
* LDRQ0S - LDR PID Q0 in static operation (proportional term)
* LDRQ1ST - LDR PID Q1 in static operation (integral term)
* KFLDRQ2 - LDR PID Q2 (differential term)

KFLDRL can also be used to get open-loop type behavior for operation past the [[MAP]] and requested boost limit.

==Timing==

When running elevated boost on pump gas, you will have to significantly cut requested timing to prevent timing retard. Keep your worst case correction factors in the single digits, and always carefully monitor your knock voltages when tuning your timing.

* KFZW/KFZW2 - primary timing maps. ME7.1 has a two point variable cam timing system; there is a table for each cam timing state.

If you did not fully "correct" your [[MAF]] using KFKHFM, make sure you do a lot of logging to see where the various load points are and how much [[timing]] ME7.1 is pulling due to knock activity. Most likely, you will have to adjust the ''entire'' map. If you did correct your [[MAF]], you can probably leave most of the timing table alone, except at very high load.

If you are tuning with race gas, and adding a whole lot of timing, you may have to adjust the maximum/optimal torque maps so you do not throw torque exceeded DTCs:

* RLVMXN/RLVSMXN - Maximum relative indicated torque under open throttle body
* KFMIOP - Optimal engine torque map

==Other niceties==
===Speed limiter===
* VAVMX/VMAX - Speed limiter

===Rev limiter===
* NMAX - RPM limit
* NLLM - idle RPM

===Left foot braking===
Set either of these to maximum to prevent throttle cut when left foot braking:

* NWPMBBR - Minimum RPM for acc pedal value lockout on brake operation
* VWPMBBR - Minimum speed for acc pedal value lockout on brake operation

===Knock control===
'''Adjust these maps with care. Abusing any of them can cause severe ping/knock/detonation and probable motor damage'''
* KRFKLN - Ignition retard per knock event.
* KRALH - Load hysteresis. This adjusts how quickly timing will be restored as load changes.
* KRANH - Engine speed hysteresis. This adjusts how quickly timing will be restored as RPM changes.
====Requested load cut on knock detection====
* KFFLLDE - Factor for slow LDR intervention on rlmax via KR
====Fuel enrichment on knock detection====
* KFLAMKRL - Enrichment on ignition retard

===Launch control===
You may be able to lower NMAX and raise this:
* NMAXOG - Raised max engine speed

There are various tables that govern whether to use NMAX or NMAXOG. There may be a way to use both to set a lower RPM limiter while the car is not moving.

===Emissions===

* CDKAT - Cat diagnosis in OBDII-Mode. Set to zero to disable rear cat DTC

==References==
*[[Motronic abbreviations]]
*[[VCDS]]
*[[Lemmiwinks]]

[[Category:Tuning]]

Tuning

2009-08-30T22:45:12Z

NorCalS4: /* Fueling */

==Getting Started==

Things you need

# KWP2000+ OBD cable
# KWP2000+ [http://nyet.org/cars/files/KWP2000-ME7.zip flashing software]
# [http://www.markmansur.com/downloadApp.htm TunerPro]
# XDF file for the revision of ECU you are using. If you wish to use a different version software than your car came with, read [[Generations | this]] carefully.
#* [http://nyet.org/cars/files/8D0907551M-20081221.xdf XDF] for M-box.
# [http://www.ecufix.com/shop/ ECUFix] (optional, some KWP2000 flashing software will do checksumming for you)
# [[VCDS]] (aka VAG-COM) and/or [[ECUx]]
# A wide-band O2 sensor if you are not using stock fueling. A tailpipe sniffer is fine, as long as you have test-pipes and no pre-cats in your downpipes.

==Fueling==

'''(**is this fuel tuning process for tuning stg 3 cars w/ upgraded MAFs?? If tuning a stg. 1-2+ car, what fueling maps, if any, would need to changed??? sry, this was the only way i could figure out how to ask you a question)'''''Italic text''

Always start with this first. If you get fueling wrong, you will likely break something. Get this right, and do not try pushing the envelope in any tables until you are confident your fueling is where you want it. Always use a wideband sensor. '''''Do not''''' skimp on this. The stock narrow bands do not provide you with accurate enough readings.

*MLHFM - compensate for [[MAF]] housing diameter. Some argue that using a different MAF housing (to extend the functional metered flow range) requires you to fix this so that measured load is "correct". The upside is that all of Motronic's tables that are based on load are probably still good. The downside is that you may hit the hard limit of load, and you'll go lean at high loads because the ECU can't tell how much air the motor is ingesting. That's obviously very bad. If that's the case, you'll definitely want to scale back the MAF readings some. Even if you don't ride the hard limit, you'll also run off the end of the load axis in the timing tables. Some say this isn't so much of an issue.

*KRKTE - primary fueling. Start with this to get your WOT [[AFR]] to roughly match your requested [[AFR]]. If you are using stock injectors and fuel pump, you should not have to touch this.

There are two ways to adjust requested AFR:

*KFLDBTS - requested lambda for component protection when calculated EGT is above TABGBTS (may require a lower TABGBTS if your MAF is not 100% compensated for in MLHFM)
*LAMFA - requested lambda when calculated [[EGT]] is below TABGBTS

Once you get your WOT AFR right, you may notice that your [[LTFT]]s are way out of whack. If they get too far out, you'll throw a code and possibly go into limp mode.

*KFKHFM - Correction map for [[MAF]]. Log [[STFT]]s at various part throttle positions, RPMs, inclines, and gears to determine where the [[MAF]] readings need tweaking. If you are using the stock [[MAF]] and intake system, you should not have to touch this.

Now that you have your fueling set up, you'll probably notice that your MPG readings in your cluster are totally wrong. Fill up a with a tank of gas, and reset your trip odometer and average MPG. When you are done with the tank, fill up your tank, see how much gas you used and how far you went, and check it against the new average MPG. Get a calculator out, and correct it here:

*KVB - fuel consumption (MPG in cluster)

==Boost==

[[ME7.1]] doesn't really have a "boost" table. It does everything based on "specified load". Requested boost is roughly 10*(spec load)+300mbar.

First, make sure the 100% pedal position requests enough load:
* KFMIRL - specified [[load]]

Specified load/boost will never exceed these limits:
* LDRXN - maximum specified load
* FLKDHBN - maximum requested pressure ratio

===IAT effect on requested boost===
ME7.1 will adjust the specified load limit depending on [[IAT]]s. As IAT's go up, ME7.1 brings the max boost up a bit so that the driver can't tell that the car is slow in hot weather. However, at some point, if IAT's go high enough, you may want to pull max specified load a bit to prevent knock:
* KFTARX - IAT correction for maximum specified load

If you are really riding the bleeding edge of boost, you may ONLY want to reduce requested boost as IATs go up.
Also, if you are running a lot of boost, and always want maximum performance, there is no point in increasing boost when it is hot, let alone reducing boost when it is cold.

See also LDIATA below.

===Cam changeover effect on requested boost===
Motronic likes to change requested boost depending on cam position. While it may seem like a good idea in theory, in practice, abrupt changes in requested boost near the [[MAP]] limit can make the boost [[PID]] unhappy. When logging, you may see an odd notch in requested boost between 3000 and 4000 RPM. These maps are what is causing that notch
* KFPBRK - Correction factor for combustion chamber pressure
* KFPBRKNWS - Correction factor for combustion chamber pressure when NWS active
* KFPRG - Internal exhaust partial pressure dependent on cam adjustment when sumode=0
* KFURL - Conversion constant for ps->rl dependent on cam adjustment when sumode=0

===Boost [[PID]]===

If your actual boost is not meeting requested boost, you may have to increase the PID I limit between 2250 and 5000 RPM for 850 and 1000mBar:
* KFLDIMX - LDR I-Regulator limit

To go along with KFTARX above, there is another IAT correction that ME7.1 uses to allow the PID to add waste-gate duty cycle at elevated IATs. You may want to zero it all out:
* LDIATA - LDR I-Regulator limit as a function of IAT

If you aren't using K03s, you may have to tweak the PID response. Note: this is NOT used to adjust requested boost. It is used to compensate for different waste-gate responses.
* KFLDRL - Map for linearization of boost pressure = f(TV). This is the '''post-PID''' waste-gate duty correction table.
* LDRQ0S - LDR PID Q0 in static operation (proportional term)
* LDRQ1ST - LDR PID Q1 in static operation (integral term)
* KFLDRQ2 - LDR PID Q2 (differential term)

KFLDRL can also be used to get open-loop type behavior for operation past the [[MAP]] and requested boost limit.

==Timing==

When running elevated boost on pump gas, you will have to significantly cut requested timing to prevent timing retard. Keep your worst case correction factors in the single digits, and always carefully monitor your knock voltages when tuning your timing.

* KFZW/KFZW2 - primary timing maps. ME7.1 has a two point variable cam timing system; there is a table for each cam timing state.

If you did not fully "correct" your [[MAF]] using KFKHFM, make sure you do a lot of logging to see where the various load points are and how much [[timing]] ME7.1 is pulling due to knock activity. Most likely, you will have to adjust the ''entire'' map. If you did correct your [[MAF]], you can probably leave most of the timing table alone, except at very high load.

If you are tuning with race gas, and adding a whole lot of timing, you may have to adjust the maximum/optimal torque maps so you do not throw torque exceeded DTCs:

* RLVMXN/RLVSMXN - Maximum relative indicated torque under open throttle body
* KFMIOP - Optimal engine torque map

==Other niceties==
===Speed limiter===
* VAVMX/VMAX - Speed limiter

===Rev limiter===
* NMAX - RPM limit
* NLLM - idle RPM

===Left foot braking===
Set either of these to maximum to prevent throttle cut when left foot braking:

* NWPMBBR - Minimum RPM for acc pedal value lockout on brake operation
* VWPMBBR - Minimum speed for acc pedal value lockout on brake operation

===Knock control===
'''Adjust these maps with care. Abusing any of them can cause severe ping/knock/detonation and probable motor damage'''
* KRFKLN - Ignition retard per knock event.
* KRALH - Load hysteresis. This adjusts how quickly timing will be restored as load changes.
* KRANH - Engine speed hysteresis. This adjusts how quickly timing will be restored as RPM changes.
====Requested load cut on knock detection====
* KFFLLDE - Factor for slow LDR intervention on rlmax via KR
====Fuel enrichment on knock detection====
* KFLAMKRL - Enrichment on ignition retard

===Launch control===
You may be able to lower NMAX and raise this:
* NMAXOG - Raised max engine speed

There are various tables that govern whether to use NMAX or NMAXOG. There may be a way to use both to set a lower RPM limiter while the car is not moving.

===Emissions===

* CDKAT - Cat diagnosis in OBDII-Mode. Set to zero to disable rear cat DTC

==References==
*[[Motronic abbreviations]]
*[[VCDS]]
*[[Lemmiwinks]]

[[Category:Tuning]]