== '''Objective''' ==

Convert a Tip B5 S4 into a 6spd Manual

== '''Special Tools''' ==

# Bentley Manuals
# VAG-COM e.g. Ross-Tech
# Engine Bridge
# Transmission Jack
# [[VAG 3213]] Shaft Alignment Tool
#* Which I will show you how to make yourself
# VAG 3242 Crank Shaft Lock Pin
# Connector pin removal tools
# Driveshaft star-pattern bits
# M17 Hex Allen Socket/Key
# Multimeter with continuity test
# Torque Wrench capable of 150 ft.lbs
# The usual collection of Metric Sockets, Wrench, Torx bits

== '''Parts''' ==

=== Hardware ===
The actual part numbers you need may vary depending on what year/models you are mixing. The author takes no responsibility and will not answer any questions on parts. DO NOT assume these are the correct or only parts you will need.

# 6spd EDU Transmission (01E300048S)
#* RS4 Transmission mounts
#* Transmission mounting bracket (Left 8D0399107S, Right 8D0399108AN)
#* Mounting Bracket Heat shields (Left 8D0399299C, Right 8D099300M)
#* Starter Mounting Bolt & Nut (N10431702, N10261304)
#* Most Bell housing bolts can be reused, but some are different (N90767202, N90495604, N10238202)
# Left (8D0407271AR/8D0407451MX) & Right (8D0407272AR/8D0407452KX) Front Axles
#* 2pcs Axle CV Sealing washers (8D0407309A)
#* CV Joint Bolts (12pcs N90668201) & Plates (6pcs 443407357/1K0407357D)
#* 2pcs M16 Axle Bolts (4A0407643A)
#* Right Axle Heat Shield (4D0407720)(Left side can be reused from Tip trans)
#* May need two CV Boot kits if the axles were old and the boots look old / worn / about to tear
# Propshaft (8D0521101J)
#* 2 x 6pcs New CV Joint Bolts (N0199261)
#* Manual Transmission to Propshaft Heat Shield (8D0301325B) and Heat Shield mounting bolts (2pcs N10425101)
#* 2pcs Axle CV Sealing washers (183521141A)
# Rear Differential (01H500040N DXT)
#* 2 x 6pcs New CV Axle Bolts (N90668201) (I was able to re-use tip ones)
#* 2pcs Axle CV Sealing washers (8D0407309A)
# Shift box (8D0711026B & 8D0711167) with shifter mechanism
#* Selector Shaft Rod & Armature (8D0711151J) with Selector Lever & Knuckle joint, Torque Bar (8D0711271N)
#* Black Trim plate for Manual Transmission (8D0864261H6DP)
#* Retaining frame (8D0863279K, 8D0864281H)
#* Shift Sound absorber (8D0711406D)
# Manual Foot Pedal assembly
#* Clutch Master Cylinder (8E1721401AG)
#* Clutch Master to Slave line (8E1721465J)
#* Clutch Slave Cylinder (8E0721257B)
#* Slave Mounting Bracket (8E0721487B)
# Brake Reservoir to Clutch Master Cylinder Line (857721453)
# Clutch (whatever ...)
#* Guide Sleeve (01E141181A) and Guide Sleeve Bolts (3pcs N0402033)
#* Clutch Bolts (6pcs N0147392)
#* Rollout Bearing (012141165E) (Included with most new clutch kit)
# Dual Mass Flywheel (078105266M) or others
#* Flywheel Bolts (8pcs N90705901)
#* Needle Shaft Bearing (034105313A) (Included with most new flywheel)
# Turbine to DP Gasket (8D0253115F)
# Subframe Bolts (N90956801 4pcs)
#* Always replace stretch bolts with newer x120mm bolts

=== Electrical ===
# Impulse Sender (Flywheel RPM Sensor) (06A906433C)
# Clutch Vent Valve Switch (811907343B) & Harness
# Clutch Position Sensor (Starter inhibitor switch 3B1911807A) & Harness
# Reverse Light Harness

=== Chemicals ===
# 6 x 120g packs of Audi CV Grease (G052133A3)
# Redline Moly Assembly Lube (for Needle shaft)
# Bucket & Mineral Spirits (for cleaning & washing CV Joints)
# DOT4 Brake Fluid e.g. Racing Blue (useful when bleeding brakes because new fluid is clearly blue)
# G12+ Coolant (But I prefer to filter and recycle mine)
# 2.5 liters Transmission Oil e.g. 1 bottle Redline MTL + 2 bottles MT-90
# 2 liters Differential Oil e.g. 2 bottles Redline 75w90NS
# Loctite (for sealing CV Bolts)

=== Optional ===
# Radiator for Manual Transmission (8D0121251AP)
#* 6spd one has more cooling capacity, no built in ATF Warmer
#* Never install a used radiator - always buy NEW !
# Gaskets & Covers for 2nd'ary Air Injection
#* I can supply these if you lack the custom fabrication skills
# A nice (not Tip Buttons) Steering Wheel
#* RS4 Air Leather Steering wheel
# A Nice Shift Knob & Boot
#* Rieger Napa Leather illuminated 6spd Shift Knob & Boot
# M/T-Box ECU & Hitachi MAF (if using Bosch MAF)
#* You may be ale to reuse your TIP ECU or Reflash it - I couldn't reuse mine

== '''Process''' ==

=== Removal ===

==== Preparation ====
# Park with Handbrake-on
# Loosen wheel bolts now before the car leaves the ground
#* Use M17 Socket & Breaker Bar to loosen Wheel Bolts
#* Remove Wheel caps over the Axle bolts
#* Use M16 Allen Key/Socket, a Breaker bar and Torque Multiplier (long extension) to loosen Axle bolt in Wheel
# Raise on Lift / Jackstands

==== Exterior ====
# Remove Headlights & Bumper, drain/store windshield washer fluid
# Drain Coolant
#* Loosen Radiator and Drain Coolant
#** Filter (e.g. using painters cheese-cloth or v.fine mesh filter) and store coolant for reuse
# Remove ATF system
#* Drain ATF from Transmission
#* Disconnect ATF lines to radiator and drain ATF
#* Remove ATF Cooler from behind Left SMIC
# Optional : Remove Radiator
# Disconnect and remove Battery, store safely out of the way
# Remove Exhaust
#* Disconnect entire Exhaust & Mufflers, and store out of the way
#* Unbolt and Remove Downpipes from Turbine Outlets
# Remove Propshaft
#* Remove Heat Shields
#* Unbolt CV Joints and disconnect
# Remove Rear Diff
#* Support Rear Differential
#* Unbolt Rear axles to Diff
#* Remove Rear Differential
# Unbolt Torque Converter - Drive Plate
# Remove Engine Airbox, MAF, intake pipes, PCV and spider hose
# Remove 2nd'ary Air Injection
#* Remove Pump
#* Remove AIR Valves
#* Remove EGT Sensors
#* Remove EGT Sensor mounting plate, disconnect Vacuum lines and AIR Vacuum Valve, discard
#* Reinstall EGT Sensors using a locking screw
#* Seal off the vacuum line coming from the fuel rail assembly
# Support Engine motor with Engine Bridge
#* Disconnect Heater to Engine Coolant lines if using an Engine Hoist or Crane
#* Unbolt Front Axles
#* Unbolt Sub-frame
#* Unbolt and set aside lower control arm and control link
#* Unbolt engine mounts
#* Unbolt and remove front sway bar / mounts assembly
#* Store SubFrame and SwayBar assembly in safe place out of the way
# Disconnect and remove Automatic Transmission
#* Unbolt Torque Converter from Drive Plate - As per Bentley
#* Disconnect Shift selector cable
#* Unbolt Starter and Trans to bell housing
#* Remove bolts from Shift Box
# Unbolt Drive Plate / Starter ring
#* As per Bentley
# Remove Hub from Crank Shaft
#* The Spacer Hub is on the end of the Crank shaft to allow for the thinner drive plate and no flywheel
#* [[image:CrankShaftHub2.JPG]]
#* The Spacer Hub is pressed onto the crank shaft flange, it can be removed using a Pulley Puller or Use a large flathead screwdriver working gradually around the perimeter, being creful not to damage the rear main seal.
#* [[image:CrankShaftHubRemoved.JPG]]

'''Inside Cabin'''
# Remove Drivers side footwell covers
# Remove Left/Right footwell A-Pillar covers
# Remove Shifter Assembly
#* Remove Shift Knob
#* Remove Shift Trim
#* Disconnect Tip harness cable and shift electronics board
#* Remove Shifter mechanism
#* Unbolt Shift Box and remove
# Disconnect Park-Ignition Interlock
#* Remove Steering Wheel
#* Remove Steering column trim pieces
#* Disconnect clip holding cable inside ignition
#* Cut Cable where it enters the Shifter assembly
#** Remove the cable and discard
#** [[Image:Ignition.JPG]]
# Remove Pedals
#* Reach behind brake pedal and unbolt pedal armature from Brake Master Cylinder
#* Drain Brake Fluid from reservoir
#* Loosen Brake Fluid Reservoir by disconnecting mounting bolt, detaching brake lines
#* [[Image:LiftBrakeReservoir.JPG‎]]
#* Loosen 2 bolts holding Brake Vacuum reservoir onto firewall and pedal assembly
#* Unbolt top of Pedal assembly from the footwell console frame
#* Remove Accelerator Pedal from Pedal Assembly and store
#* [[Image:EmptyFootPedal.JPG]]

=== Installation ===

Installation is the reverse of remove ... <not>

# Replace Radiator with Manual one
#* Process is as described in Bentley
#** Remove Aux Fan Rail
#** Unbolt A/C Condenser
#** Pull securing plugs on top of radiator
#** Wiggle out from the top, swap with the new one
#* Refill Coolant, loosen bleeder screw to hasten the process
# Seal Secondary Air Injection
#* Fabricate covering plates and seals
#* [[Image:SecondaryAirVentPlate.JPG]]
# Shifter Assembly
#* Install Shift Box
#* Bolt on from the top
#* Attach Sound Absorber but don't torque nuts until Selector Rod is adjusted
#* Shift Knob & Boot but don't install until Selector Rod is adjusted
# Clutch Line
#* Clean out the line using compressed air
#* [[image:ClutchLine.JPG]]
#* Clutch line runs from back of the Master Cylinder through a hole in the firewall and back through another hole into the engine bay
#* [[image:ClutchLineRouting1.JPG]]
#* Then under the steering rack over the transmission bell housing
#* [[Image:ClutchLineRouting2.JPG]]
# Foot pedals
#* There are a couple of different accelerator sensors depending on year, each with different connector/wiring. So if you purchase a 2nd-hand assembly remove the Accelerator pedal from it, and replace with your old Pedal & electronics
#* Clutch Position Sensor must be aligned so that sensor just engages when clutch is fully depressed
#* If not adjusted correctly the sensor will break when the clutch is pressed
#* [[Image:ClutchSensors.JPG]]
#* Refill with Brake Fluid and bleed the Clutch
# Rear Diff
#* Process is as described in Bentley
#** Support the Diff on a Jack, and raise
#** Torque the supporting Bolts on rear frame, and the carrier on the front
#* Apply fresh CV Grease as needed to Axle CV's, keep the securing flange holes clean
#* Reattach Rear Axles, torque the Axle CV to Flange bolts
# Flywheel
#* Ensure the Adapter Hub on the end of the Crank shaft is removed before proceeding.
#* When removed the face of the Crank Shaft Flange should be almost flush with the rear main seal
#* Install a new needle bearing in FW
#* Always use NEW Flywheel Bolts, torque to 44Ft.lbs, that's the easy part
#** Always torque the bolts in a Star pattern, never do them sequential
#** Get a Friend ready to help do the hard part : breaker bar + 180deg
#* Rest of process is as described in Bentley
# Clutch
#* Be careful not to get any grease on face of Flywheel or Clutch Friction plate
#* Use the clutch alignment tool to center Friction Plate before Pressure Plate assembly is fastened
#* Don't think you need to use new Fastening bolts, just re-tighten in star pattern
# Transmission
#* Replace the Guide Sleeve, and lightly grease the outside with Red Moly
#* Install new Push-Out Bearing
#* Lightly (not much at all) grease the grooves at the end of the needle shaft, remove any excess grease, you don't want it to fling off onto the Flywheel & Clutch friction plate
#* Install Mounting Brackets & Shields
#* Install support RS4 Rubber Mounts
#* Install Shift selector and torque rods onto
#** Torque the selector lever onto selector shaft
#** Select an even gear (2nd, 4th) by pulling the selector rod towards rear, listen for gear engaging
#*** When selecting even gear the selector lever should be almost horizontal, if not loosen selector shaft nut and adjust
#** Now push the selector rod forward to select an odd gear (e.g. 1st, 3rd)
#*** When selecting even gear the selector lever should be almost vertical, it not loosen selector shaft nut and adjust
# Installing Slave Cylinder
#* Lithium Grease on the body of the cylinder
#* Grease on the end of the push shaft
#* Install cylinder with mounting bracket, clip the clutch line into bracket
#* Clip the clutch line into the slave cylinder, it should click, insert the retaining clip
# Installing Propshaft
#* Same as Bentley
#* Use the tool 3213 to hold the shaft straight before installing
#* Support in the middle with jack and raise
#* Bolt onto Rear Diff, 40 ft.lbs
#* Align shaft center bearing with mounting holes
#* Check the shaft is straight where it reaches the transmission
#** If not, the engine is mounted crooked
#** Loosen Engine Mount Bolts and Transmission Mount
#** Use Crowbar to adjust Engine position until Flange on the end of Trans lines up with Propshaft
# Drain and Refill the Transmission and Diff's with new Fluid
#* If EDU trans has two drain plugs, undo both, and refill to the filler plug line (not 7mm below)
# Adjust Shift Rods
#* In case selector shaft comes loose while adjust its better to do this before Axles are installed
#* Leave Torque Rod screw loose
#* Tighten Selector Shaft screw, find Neutral, loosen screw and adjust until Neutral is centered, retighten
#** Shift should be centered when in neutral, spring resistance should be felt moving left into 1st and right into 5th
#* Make sure can select 1st thru 5th. Then adjust Torque Rod to center position after ensuring can also select Reverse
# Downpipes
#* Use new Turbine-Exhaust Gaskets
# Exhaust
#* Re-install Heat Shields first
#* Attachment is the reverse of installation
# Front Axles
#* Ensure CV joints are well greased with fresh CV grease
#** If the axles are old and CV joints are stiff you can try cleaning and repacking with new grease
#*** Use Axle Bolt to loosen CV, remove boot, remove balls
#*** Be sure to clean off dirt/contamination with mineral spirits
#*** Repack with new grease
#*** Same process as replacing CV Boot
#* Loosely install Axle bolts hand tight, they will be torqued when the car is on the ground
#* Axle Heat Shields
# Bleed brakes
#* Follow Bentley process
#* Use Racing Blue so its easier to tell when fresh fluid is running thru whole lines
# Wheels
#* Install wheel bolts hand tight

Lower Car to the ground
# Axle Bolts
#* Use M16 Allen Key/Socket and torque to 140 ft.lbs + 180deg with breaker bar + extension
# Refill Coolant

Q: What you get for all this effort ?
A: An extra pedal to depress
#* [[Image:3Pedals.JPG]]

=== Electrical Harness ===

# Clutch Vent Valve to ECU, 2 wire connector (disables Cruise Control when clutch is depressed)
#* Connect one wire to pin 3 of the 4pin Brake Light Switch over the Brake Pedal
#* Run the other lead up through footwell and into engine bay plenum
#* Connect to Pin 39 on the ECU connector, as shown here, connected to the yellow wire
#* [[image:ECUHarness.JPG]]
# Clutch Position Sensor to Central Locking, 2 wire connector (disables starter until clutch is depressed)
#* Connect one wire to ground
#* Pull out pin 2 from the Blue Connector in Engine Bay Plenum
#* Connect clutch sensor lead to Pin 2
#* [[Image:ECUConnectorPlenum.JPG]]
# Reverse Light, 2 wire connector on Transmission Right Side
#* Buy/make a harness using 2-pin connector
#* Run the harness up to grommet in the firewall next to O2 sensor brackets, and through the firewall to the ECU Box grommet
#* Left A-Pillar Brown connector Pin 8 Blue/Red wire, cut-off old lead and splice-in new wire to Reverse Sensor
#* [[Image:ReverseLight.JPG]]
# Disconnect TCU Harness
#* Pull passenger footwell
#** Remove TCU from housing and disconnect
#* Disconnect Brown 15 pin plug in right lower a-pillar, this connects the CAN bus and K-line to TCU
# Remove the TCU to Transmission Valve Body and Range Selector harnesses
#* Remove brackets holding cable along side of left wheel well
#* Roll-up the cables and store safely where no electrical short-circuit
#* Seal off the ends/connectors

=== Reprogramming ===

# Ignition on but no start
# Cluster
#* Adaption, channel 60, set to 1025 (removes Transmission from CAN Bus)
#* Ignition Off
# ABS
#* Use Manual login code: 09495(based on state you will be recoding to)
#* Recode to 6spd : 04395
#* Ignition Off
# ECU
#* If recoding a Tip ECU
#* Login with 11463
#* Recode to 6spd : 06711
#* Ignition off
# Ignition back on
#* Clear codes in Cluster, ABS, ECU
# ECU Throttle Body Adaption
#* Set Block channel 60

=== Before Test Drive ===
# If oil was drained, pull Fuel Pump fuse, give the engine several 7s cranks, with 3s pause in between
#* Reinstall FP fuse and fire it up
# Let the car idle to operating temp checking & refilling coolant
# Make sure you can select Reverse and the Reverse Light comes on
#* If not dont force it, repeat the shift/torque rod adjustment process
# Instrument cluster will complain you need to depress Clutch before starting
#* Starter inhibitor switch should prevent starting until clutch is fully depressed
#* If Clutch Position Sensor is not correctly aligned, or not correctly connected to V94 then car will not start

=== When Test Drive is done ===
# After several miles return car to lift, recheck Trans fluid levels, adjust until fluid is 7mm below lip of the filler hole

== Copyright ==
(c) Copyright 2009, the author aka "VR Life", all rights reserved.
Contact the author [mailto:vrlife@gmail.com?subject=Tip_To_6spd_Conversion VR's Email] for any feedback, suggestions on this wiki.